How to tie the Yosemite Bowline Knot. According to Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, a bowline will reduce a rope’s strength 25 to 30 percent, compared to 20 to 25 percent for the trace-8. This is a really quick knots to tie, easy to untie, and when well done, there's no reason it is less safe than a fig.8 knots. If you're a wiz at knots (IE - knot geek, professional rigger, sailor) than go ahead and use the yosemite follow through.
A Yosemite bowline is a loop knot often perceived as having better security than a bowline.
As a graduate of the boy scouts, I already trust my knot tying, and can tie a regular bowline like it's my job, and I will practice on the ground before leading at/above my onsite level.Europeans use the (double) Bowline w/ safety knot much more frequently than North Americans. I tie tight and have alot of leftover slack), and I'm always a bit cautious when doing something new. Personally, I like the figure 8 because it is so quick and easy to visually inspect. For long routes (5+ pitches), aid climbing, or ice, I exclusively use the figure 8.The only reason falling on an incorrectly tied bowline isn't more embarrassing is that, at best, you will be so thankful to be alive you will forget about the embarrassment.
Of course.. it's technically possible for this to happen, but the knot would look really sloppy and incorrect from the start and a normal person would retie it if it looked that way.
Also, its easy-to-untie attribute can quickly become a con with stiff or new ropes, or for certain trad or chimney climbs where the rope may rub against the rock.
However, there are still a considerable number of climbers who prefer to use Bowline knot or its variants. The major disadvantages are,
You can increase the safety of the knot by adding a stopper knot like the double overhand. Tied correctly, the double bowline is a safe, versatile climbing knot and will hold the weight of a fall without fusing.
I've never seen the second option.
The only way to replicate that "failing Yosemite bowline" is to physically loosen the knot and push the doubled back loop through the original loop. The two most popular variants, apart from Left-hand Bowline (also called Cowboy Bowline, Dutch Marine Bowline, and Winter Bowline, Ashley's #1034½), among climbers are Double-Bowline (Ashley's #1013) and Yosemite Bowline. However, I …
There's no risk that you'll need to cut the rope off your harness. part about the safety knotI often use a single bowline backup with a double overhand knots for backup. Yosemite Bowline knot has served me well so far.The Bowline knot [2018-06016: referring to Asheley's #1 hereafter, unless otherwise mentioned] used to be the most popular knot for climbers for a tying-in point to a harness.
I tie in the way shown in the second photo if use a double bowline.
Variation. It's safe. On November 29, Yosemite climbing legend John Long was seriously injured in an accident at a Los Angeles gym when his bowline knot came undone. The double bowline knot with a backup.The figure-eight follow through know.This knot is the gold standard in climbing, and everyone who’s ever led (or even seconded) a pitch will know how to tie it.
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