I think the concern some people have with this technique is that there is a possibility that someone could think they did it properly, but actually threaded the rope wrong, thus allowing the figure 8 to possibly come untied. I know a couple of “husky” climbers who have used this, including the irrepressible Mike Law in the current incarnation of his climbing career. I’ll take a look and amend the article if need be.But which variations? Bowline variants which are suitable for climbing solve both problems by some combination of the following methods:In the recreational climbing community – knowledge and skills are typically passed on by word-of-mouth of by trial and error learning at the crag. Of the two, the latter is a less important consideration given the strength assessments made above, but it is still worth note. ice climbing, mountaineering, adventure trad), you probably don’t need to make the change.
Yosemite Tie-Off. Yosemite Bowline knot is one of the most popular variant of Bowline knots used by climbers, notably for the harness tying-in point. There is some limited data from a 2016 German study on climbing gym accidents, and the findings reported that “the most serious crashes were all due to mating failures – a proper and consistent partner check could easily prevent such accidents”. However, even after tightening, rope can be pulled from one loop to the other. Basically, a tiny bit of mistying, or even just a bit of wiggle during a course of a day, could cause a serious weakening of the strength of the knot. If you’re committed to forming that same familiarity with a secure bowline variant, then there is no good reason you shouldn’t.The way around this problem is to tie a more secure and stable variant. Knot illustrations contained in this web site are not intended for rock climbing instruction. All offer ease of untying after loading, and therefore they present themselves as viable alternatives to the Figure 8.I think the issue is that the bowline variants that people generally use are actually a bit shit for reasons stated in the article.
(Google images of "sheet bend", which is bowline-like : that is usually presented from the helpful side; but bowline, almost never. Start off with a normal bowline, but you’ll need extra length in the working end after the second pass through the initial loop.
Here is my video to demonstrate the point — Reliable climbing data is thin on the ground, and my guess (without actually knowing 100%) is that the reliable data on that particular chestnut will probably not exist. The Bowline knot (and its variants) have two advantages over Figure-of-Eight, that is, it is easier to untie, which is handy after the knot is heavily loaded (by falls), and is marginally quicker to tie. But that all comes down to muscle memory and familiarity. I will briefly respond to each of your points:Personally, I still use a Figure 8. For what it’s worth, let’s try and wade through this particular quagmire and see if we can’t shed some light on this most ancient of climbing questions – should you tie in with a bowline, and if so, which bowline is best?To be clear I believe in self-reliance and am not worried about my partners being able to check my knot, but do worry about my own learning and remembering abilities. The primary reason is it can be untied much more easily than figure-of-eight after taking a fall(s). It has a certain similarity to a figure 8 too – it’s a barrel of laughs to tie one and then ask your partner to inspect your figure 8. If you know a single bowline, you can inspect it. The major disadvantages are, Yosemite Bowline or Bowline with Yosemite Tie Off - Making a Bowline More Secure It is often recognised that the Bowline is a very secure way of tying a … Essentially, Double Bowline keeps all the basic principles (and hence cons) of the standard Bowline, but advances some of them. Yosemite Bowline seems to be decently popular in the UK and (I guess) US among climbers.Interesting post. Then wrap the working end around the rope that had …
The Yosemite Bowline is mainly an alternative tie-in to the Figure Eight.
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