Don't be afraid to apply too much, it's easy to wipe away the excess and it won't cause any harm.
I bought a new chain, possibly because I had had to remove the old one with a hacksaw!The last opportunity to personalise your bicycle is the stickers/decals. This is an advantage of the old-style 'index-less' shifting which just relies on friction holding the gear levers in a specific position.This was a wonderful Instructable. You'll possibly have to redo this, because the nuts take up some of the slack and make the assembly too tight again, but trial and error will get it correct.I have a Gary Fischer Aquila from the trash, with an STX group, quite nice stuff from the Nineties. Using a gear brush really helps you to get into the cassette cogs.Don’t ever be tempted to substitute the bike cleaning product and soft brush with washing up liquid and a kitchen sponge – this can result in a scratched or even colour faded frame.Dry it down properly after its wash, and apply chain lube. See the photos above for the different stages of the paint stripping. With the paintbrush I daubed it very liberally over anywhere where there was a trace of rust on my frame, and then sat back to see what happens. I found someone selling reproductions of the original 1980s Puch Alpine decals, so I applied these to my frame, and was very happy with the result! Don't forget to clean and de-grease your frame where you're applying decals, it makes a big difference.When I removed the bottom bracket previously I just left it covered in the old grease, sat in a tin on the workbench. Quite simply, I couldn't get the pin to budge, no matter how hard I turned the handle of the chain tool. Unlike old automobiles, old bicycles are relatively easy to restore to working condition. Wet & Dry is also useful.
I bought a used entry-level 2009 Raleigh a few years ago to get into cycling on the cheap. Wind around the handle now, and when you reach the brake lever assembly, do a loop around the brake handle housing, so that the direction of the rotation of the tape around the handlebars is now reversed. That old tank of a bike taught me enough to get a job in a bicycle shop. There had been little surface preparation between paint jobs over the years, so it was very lumpy and some had been applied with a brush.
Initially it turned out the bike was bright metallic blue, then it was yellow, then lurid green, and lastly the white I saw when I bought it.If you're repairing an old bicycle, you'll probably find quite a lot of rust. The purpose of this is to continue to protect the frame from rust even if the paint above is badly scratched or chipped.Here are some things that were on my mind at the end of this project:A big bucket of warm water for washing parts in was useful, and I used a combination of wire wool, wet & dry paper, and a kitchen sponge to do the job. The first step (and by far the longest!)
They won’t get deep into built up oil as a proper degreaser will so baby-wipe washes shouldn’t replace the proper treatment.When you return home from a tough old slog over the hills and dales, often the last thing you want to do when you get in is clean your bike.Give the rims on your wheels a good wash and wipe, and (if you’re using rim, not disc, brakes) wipe the pads to make sure there’s no crud on there that could erode the braking surface.However, without regular cleaning, the drivetrain will become mucky, parts can begin to corrode, and you’re a lot more likely to find you’re struggling with seized components, un-cooperative gears and squeaky brakes.
A clean bike chain will easily shift through the gears. Take your bicycle out for a few quick test rides and you'll soon work out what needs to be tweaked.Things I needed for this project:The primer that I chose to use is an anti-rust primer. I'd recommend watching some tutorial videos online before you try this, as it requires some care.New parts and components I ended up purchasing:In removing the paint you have two allies - abrasives and chemical paint stripper.Nice work. The tape I bought is foamy, rather than simple tape, for comfort, and has an adhesive strip on the back. It may be easier to take the chain off the chainring to do this.Start by giving the frame a basic wipe.
Then tighten up the central nut to force the crank arm onto the shaft of the axle. Buy one of the little pots they sell (you really won't need very much), and find an old paintbrush. Now I wanted to install it, so the time had come to clean it and regrease.Very cool! Fit the chain round the sprocket, freewheel and derailleurs. The rear brakes didn't function, as they had been bodged. Don't remove the pin entirely, just push it far enough to remove the link, otherwise you'll never be able to replace it.You should expect to have to calibrate the derailleurs to an extent, to make sure you can easily change up and down within the full range of gears available.
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