She was not beautiful, but could look striking dressed in ways that suited her and that could be where she got her love of dramatic details and jewellery from. With their gold nails and long black velvet sleeves reaching the elbow,they give an impression of an elegant gauntlet ready to engage in battle, with saddle stitching and velvet arms, to wear them would certainly have given the wearer a certain degree of attention.Of course Schiaparelli is best known for her associations with Salvador Dali and Jean Cocteau, both surrealist artists and both would contribute toward her creations. Chanel came as herself, Schiap dressed as a Surrealist tree. (1938)Her sharp business mind was ever active, and she made the most of her burgeoning brand with stockings, hats, jewellery and handbags in her name, as well as her “Shocking” perfume – again, a little after Chanel had introduced her own house perfumes.The heeled shoe hat is probably one of Schiaparelli’s most famous creations of all. And, of course, comfort too!
Introducing Elsa Schiaparelli. This evening dress was presented in the 1938 Le Cirque (Circus) collection. The actual premises? Ready-to-Wear. In 1938, Dali offered Elsa a drawing representing a female skeleton, accompanied by a note: “Dear Elsa, I like this idea of 'bones on the outside' enormously (…)”. She collaborated many times with Salvador Dalí. She also had a system of tiny drawers for each design, storing the button, the fabric, and any other trimmings or details used.She found that the use of exaggerated shoulder pads really made the waist look narrower in comparison. The lantern bag with its candy coloured handles and candy bows held a lantern shaped body with shiny black diamond stitching which would hold just enough to get you through the evening making you stand out for all the right reasons.Schiaparelli and Jean Cocteau dressShe worked with a lot of artists: Leonor Fini designed her scent bottle (supposedly modeled on Mae West’s form), Jean Clement and Roger Jean-Pierre sold her ideas for buttons, Elsa Triolet offered her jewellery designs and Man Ray photographed the results.Directly and indirectly, Elsa Schiaparelli influenced a diverse range of fashion trends and designers.She wore it to a dinner where an influential buyer for an American department store spotted it and ordered forty on the spot. Again this was a Salvador Dali collaboration; a photograph taken by Dali’s wife provided the inspiration with a picture of the artist with a woman’s shoe on his head and shoulder. The celebrated designer died in 1973.APRIL 1941- Schiap’s daughter Maria Luisa Gogo Schiaparelli marriedFur Gloves with Wooden Fingernails by Meret Oppenheim 1936Her signature colour, “Shocking Pink” does have overtones of his hedonistic palette, but Schiaparelli was much more likely to use crisp black and white, or black and gold for a touch of luxury, than to employ brightly saturated hues.“You see, in designing, I consider both the clothes and the body architecturally; structure and line are the all important factors in the construction of fashions. The hat was a success and other similar ones were created with slight differences in colour and shape to the first. Among her ideas there are the phrases of Jean Cocteau written on clothes, or the skeleton dress, which the Americans call “Elsa Schiaparelli Skeleton Dress”. The skeleton dress had padding at certain points of the dress giving it the illusion of a human skeleton. Schiaparelli also designed jumpers featuring sailor tattoos over the arms, an idea that Gaultier endlessly riffs on, and look at her perfume bottle: Shocking by Schiaparelli . But, the funny thing is, the striking parts about them were influenced, suggested or downright designed by someone else. I mean, obviously, everyone gets inspired by other artists and designers.Nonsense. By indicating your email and clicking on "Register" you agree to receive newsletters from Elsa Schiaparelli.
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