I have always struggled with knots and have lost my fair share of lures at the hook because of a bad knot.also you didnt test snelling a hook?For this category, we’ll split it up into two sections to cover the two core different types of connections:I see you recommend the FG when leader is stronger than the mainline, but what do you recommend when the main line is stronger than the leader? I would love to see a knot test for such a setup using the IGFA testing machine which, I’m sure, would be more accurate than my home-made rig which incorporates a spring scale. You’re one of the many blind people trying to lead!I’ll be sure to give the Jimmy Houston knot a try next chance I get. Yes, the best thing about fishing is that it’s impossible to knot it all, so it’s a continuous learning adventure.
I was using seguar blue, tried seguar premium and now a softer advance…same resultsThose knots are all very good knots, but they consistently fail before the line when under max tension when testing their breaking strength.So only use a leader that is a thicker diameter then the braid correct? And if you’d like a shortcut, this page shows the results from my testing below to help guide you to the best knots from my many tests done so far.In the wind and rain you only have to manage one or two loops. However, the problem is that Berkley changed the formula with it’s new BBG line (the line available in stores now) and it’s tensile psi appears to be lower, making it too soft to consistantly attain +100% knots… it’ll often cut before breaking. By the way, as a retired scientist I love your approach!More test data getting added soon, so be sure to bookmark this page!The knots are common knots. I use a system to avoid tying much of anything in the field. Simple, strong and reliable. Thanks.The FG knot should not be used for those lines (it’s specifically for a stronger leader relative to the braid. My assumption for beefing up the strength of the Dropper Loop Knot would be to use more turns because they’ll help spread out the load across more surface area.Interesting. Now, the big downside to fluorocarbon line is that it has weak knot strength and is hard to tie knots with. I double over a 3′ piece of fluoro with a 3/16’s jig on each end and tie either the braid directly to it with the Bristol, or first a 6′ piece of fluoro to the braid and then the 6′ piece to the double rig exactly the same way. And then a “dropper loop knot” tied next with the surgeon’s knot placed in the middle to form the T.I don’t have pictures, I’ll try to describe it.Have you done any testing with a braid to fluorocarbon connections that are the same size? I also thought about speaking to line manufactures to see if they would invest in experimentation to develop line that would enable +100% knots to be easily tied in their line. I’d be interested to see if it holds up to actual knots.Thanks for sharing your tips Milt!San Diego Jam is a bulkier knot, but when I have used it in conjunction with the Palomar, the Palomar always breaks first.
It’s one of the easiest knot to tie thanksThanks for further describing your reasoning. Going by what the denier says, I own 30 spools of bad line, and I seem to keep purchasing more!Hay Luke, I’m still waiting for a response to my original post.
Not in half a century of looking. Your credibility as an expert is on display.Have you done a test between the snell knot and Palomar? For leader to lure knot, I use the Non-Slip Loop knot even though it’s not as strong as the uni loop or the rapala loop knots… the core factor that matters is that it’s still not the weak point because it’s tied on a line that is 2x+ stronger than the mainline.Depending on the eye of the lure, a stub leader is not always necessary, but to get the right action sometimes they are essential.
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